i missed you /mkg/. i got a new keyboard thing and had no one to talk to about it. i just got the platform for my Moonlander. i could see why some people don't like it but i find it very comfy.

>>18516 Looking clean. The Moonlander was always in the back of my mind, but then I got concavepilled. I was thinking of getting the Sillaka54

Why is it so difficult to find a decent keyboard that doesn't have gay LEDs in it and just plugs into a ps/2 port?

>>18521 The sillaka looks pretty good, and its thumb keys look like they're good for people with normal sized hands. As much as I like the thumb clusters on the moonlander, I need to reach a bit for the two outermost thumb keys. I've had the moonlander for a few years now but the platform is new to me. Thing feels a lot more stable on the platform compared to when it was held up by the one adjustable leg and the thumb cluster. I needed to adjust my ergonomics a bit to make it work but now that I'm here I don't really want to go back. I have them tented at a 45 degree angle now.

I have a GMMK 3 HE what's this bullshit about polarity? Isn't a magnet just a magnet? Am I seriously limited to HE switches from either glorious or keychron?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rkPLfBN6YwY it's so good...

I have a keyboard with hot-pluggable Gateron blue switches. I also have an old keyboard with non-hot-pluggable blue switches (the disgusting pos in picrel). I don't know the brand of those switches. I will not use the old keyboard anymore, but I thought about disassembling it. I could take off the keycaps to have spare ones at hand. I also thought about desoldering the switches. Could I insert those desoldered switches into my hot-pluggable keyboard? This way I had spare switches that I could use if my current ones fail.

>>20268 Let it go

>>20271 Yea, maybe this is actually good advice. I think I will still desolder the switches to practice desoldering. Maybe someone has some creative ideas what to do with those.

>>20268 Unless you're broke as fuck, just buy a bunch of new hotswappable switches if you just want spares on hand; especially if you're fine with sticking to Gateron, since they're generally pretty cheap. Doing some quick Amazon-fu, a pack of 120 Gateron Blues goes for 35USD. >>20272 Fair enough if you wanna do it for soldering practice at least. (I started writing the above before you sent this reply.)

>>20273 It's not about the money, I just like re-using garbage tech instead of buying new stuff. I also just saw that I might have optical switches on my current keyboard, and I don't know if the old ones are optical, too, so I will probably just buy new ones if I never need em. But at least I finally found an excuse to buy a soldering iron. Thanks anyway.

I've been using a Keychron C1 TKL (non hot swappable version) with gateron browns and though it isn't bad I'm growing tired of how loud it is. I'm in need of a second keyboard and I want something similar but as quiet as possible. >budget under $200 preferably >layout TKL >keys no idea, just something extremely quiet with a similar feel to gat browns, low profile is ok >other really prefer wired only, and either no lighting or White led only would prefer pre-built but not opposed to doing a build.

>>18535 >no gay leds new model F. >ps/2 you'll certainly need a converter for that related >waiting for a discount on F122s

>>20802 >newmodelfboards >discounts Honestly I'm more shocked that they aren't bumping prices up yet in light of tariffs, considering most of their operation depends on China. Ironically, Unicomp just hiked shit up quite a bit recently (on top of their gradually climbing prices) despite nearly everything for them being made/done in America. A New Model M now costs 190 goddamn dollars. You're better off buying an old IBM board and getting a converter or replacement controller board with QMK/VIA support at this point IMO.

>>20805 yeah, i'm guessing the sale is mostly to get rid of stuff he still has around taking dust related to that, do you know any 3rd party who makes compatible "bigass" enter keys?

I just use an original model M with a soarers Anyone want to point me to a tutorial on how I can set F13-F22 and all the extra keys to custom bash scripts so they're useful? it was my plan when buying it

>>20830 i assume you'd have to use something like autohotkey, no? that looks like a nice monitor, what brand/model is it?

>>20832 It's an IBM with sub-20 hours I found at a thrift store (only one of the monitors in that picture has more than 100 hours actually) I don't know the model because I seek out what I can afford more than what is considered good, I'm a poorfag I just like old things but in a use them kind of way not a hang them on the wall and post on reddit kind of way Still fun to attention whore about it though, no ones perfect, I found out my server has an ISA port somewhere yesterday, I want to find it and put in a 16 bit soundcard or a real floppy microcontroller instead of the shit one I have

I want to make a rubberdome/membrane version of the Planck. How many custom builders or designers have documented membrane stuff? Still unsure how it would fully go, plus other things like NKRO. Genuinely surprised that OLKB or another manufacturer hasn't tried to build an "HHKB Lite" type model for said form factor, and maybe make the dome sliders MX compatible. The template doesn't really do much in terms of learning about the membrane layers but I may as well fill in. See also for any Deskthority pages that may be helpful. This would be almost like a more fussy version of the Apple Magic Keyboard. >Budget <$100, can go much cheaper >Location (continent at least) North America >Preferred switch type (Still looking at rubberdome stuff but sure why not) Seems like the market ditched Alps/Matias switches, so anything similar to MX/Gateron Blacks would do good enough. Also have a soft spot for Greens but I remember full keyboards with them being quite rare. >Layout ANSI, but could go either ways as I'm going for flat profile caps like DSA or any variants >Form factor Planck/40%, not ready to go Full Ergo yet despite owning a trackball >Backlight N/A >Previous/current keyboards generic Monoprice 100% w/ Cherry Blues (redundant use case, blues kinda suck) , KBP V60 w/ Alps (perfect sound & tactility, 60% was usable but underwhelming despite hype), Lexmark Model M (see Monoprice) Keychron K2 w/ Gateron Blacks (good sound, extremely disappointed by 75% form factor)

>>21363 How do you deal with something so small?

>>21363 Update on mechanical/rubberdome stuff: Just now learned of ZealPC Clickiez switches which seem to actually do a decent job of replicating the sound and tactility of Alps in MX form. Unfortunately they're expensive as shit due to the creator trying to recoup the R&D costs of copying an ancient Chinese clone mechanism from the 90s. It would explain why most builds use them in 60% or TLK cases, despite most of them lacking the case size and depth to reverberate more like older keyboards. >>21573 Layers. Yurops and Asias had to do the same thing for non-latin characters and/or diacritics, and more to enter random Unicode characters. One can search up any 60% or smaller form factor for whichever macros and layer settings are used. Some Youtube geniuses would argue the Shift key or the Num/Scroll/Caps Lock keys are layers, but keyboards have had their function marked down for over 35 years by this point.

I don't really know anything about keyboards, but for a long time I've been wanting a keyboard that's "standardized." It might already exist, but basically when parts of my keyboard go bad, I don't know how to fix them, and I don't like switching between keyboards with different sizes etc. For example, I have this Fujitsu FKB4725 I saved from getting thrown out of an office cleanup. I like the size of it, but the backspace key is sticky. I don't remember what was wrong with it when I tried to fix it, but the point is that I don't know if I can just buy new parts to replace it. Not only that, when I switch between other keyboards I own (or laptops), the key spacing and size throws me off and I have to think a little harder about typing than I normally would. So if I have to replace keyboards in the future, I want to either have a model I know is just always going to be there, or have a standard so I can effectively do the same thing even if it's a different model/manufacturer. >Budget Low (but don't really care that much) >Location USA >Preferred switch type Don't care >Layout ANSI >Form factor 100% >Backlight No >Previous/current keyboards Fujitsu FKB4725, and various very cheap membrane keyboards.

Should I get a Tex Shinobi or Kodachi when they come back in stock? I really like the clitmouse but I don't want to give Lenovo any money since their build quality sucks now and too many pajeets work for them. Are there any other alternatives to this and the Lenovo clitmouse keyboard (BT)? >usecase? I plan on nigger-rigging a RISC-V deck that will be my daily driver. >Budget Low-ish >Location North America >Preferred switch type something that lets me type fast, accurately and quietly, quiet typing being the most important consideration for me >Layout ANSI, I can't type without a THICC L-shift key >Form factor 60-100%. I like having volume control without having to search for a Fn key, but I don't need the numpad often and I hardly use the F keys >Backlight Don't care as long as it's not RGB and doesn't increase the price. I can type without light and if I need it, the keyboard screen is enough light >Previous/current keyboards stock Dell keyboard that came with desktops in the late 2000-2010s. current is a thinkpad laptop, doesn't have a numpad

>>22154 oops, I was drunk and sleep deprived. by keyboard screen I mean monitor

For me, it's the logitech k845 with linear switches.