>>1031439 Well, I tried to learn this on my own and I think I got it more or less right. Correct me where you think I went retarded. I'll try printing it like this. If you wanna try the exact GCODE file I made with these parameters, here it is: https://files.catbox.moe/u47ovx.gcode

>>1031537 Did you buy the model or got it for free? In general you guys buy them

>>1031537 Your settings are fine, but you kept the model too tiny. It's likely made more for a resine printer, because with PLA it's too little to have good definition. I was printing the file as you shared it and it's so small it broke off the plate because it had no surface (here's her boot). You could use PLA for that model, but you'll have to make it bigger.

Forgot pic.

>>1031580 >Did you buy the model or got it for free? >In general you guys buy them I don't usually buy them, my sister used to give them to me for free and I think she pirated most of them if not all of them. But I did buy that Roll. It was pretty cheap. And so is this Luce model, but even though its cheap I have problems right now with my CC. Anyone has a Luce model to share? Ideally this one. >>1031964 >Your settings are fine, but you kept the model too tiny Yeah, I noticed after I had shared the file. Will modify it later.

Buying a 3D printer, what specs matter and what sites compare specs?

>>1055756 Melting point of the printhead for more exotic materials, if it's enclosed and/or ready for a ventilation tube out your window to not get cancer from fumes, I forget what it's called but whatever thing the prusa mk4 and that bambu flagship has for vibration compensation by their new chipset for faster print speeds, direct drive, part availability and ability to repair, how easy to manually bed-level since automatic levelling can only do so much, print plate material, probably a whole bunch of other garbage. If you're a newfag you probably should just get a bambu or prusa since older styles of printer are really annoying to do bed levelling on and upgrading them costs as much as one of them. If you just need a vaguely dildo shaped model and don't care about print quality tearing up your asshole then an elegoo neptune can get you there for cheaper. Between prusa and bambu, the former is more of a workhorse with repairability in mind while the latter has lots of non-replacable parts and chink firmware but a better print finish, someone said it often has a matte texture instead of smooth. For resin, elegoo's newer saturn if you want to print big or newer mars if you want to print small, and resolution scales with screen size so 12k on a small screen is better than 12k on a large one. Watch some video reviews probably.

Oh and at this point some kind of heater for the resin vat is considered a premium feature, since most people put it in a garage and air heating is inconsistent when cold.

>>1055802 I know that some people have been using fermentation heating belt and put it around the resin VAT with good results, which cost some 20$ Might be a good add-on if you go with the resin route.

>>1055814 I remember hearing jury rigging it could cause leaks but that's one way to do it. You do need a large area to handle and wash resin but most people probably don't use the garage, so it's not a big deal unless it is.

Since this thread I full of people who.may know, I'll ask. I'm asking for a friend, because he asked me and I told him I'd look into it. He wants a resin printer, but I've heard that they are more frustrating than satisfying. I've heard that, while the results are nice when they come out well, many times they just don't come out well. Like, if you're going to print using resin, 60% of the prints are gonna end up in the trash and that's a fact you have to just accept, and 40% come out well, so resin enthusiasts live for that 40% Is that really true? Could it be that the idea that a large percentage of resin prints go come out wrong comes from another era, when resin printers on the consumer market were not perfected? And if the answer is that today resin printers are more efficient and produce a higher percentage of good prints, which is the model you would recommend?

>>1070425 Depends on if you can find a resin that is good and also a printer that is good, and also how well the models are sliced and supported. I haven't looked in a while but the saturn 4 pro or whatever upmarked one by elegoo seemed good enough for me when I was looking to buy. ABS-like resin seemed to be one of the better "materials" to use as well, I think one was water-soluble so you could just leave the washbin out in the sun to harden the washed resin and dump the water instead of lots of alcohol to dispose of back in its bottle after the same sun trick.

mega(dot)nz/folder/UelXiZCR#epO3fP36ZFIOOhU6-RGM6Q I've got a MONUMENTAL archive of 3D printing files, mostly 40k, 30k, Trench Crusade, Warhammer Fantasy, and other stuff like that. Almost 5 Terabytes of shit in total. Use it wisely. Also good luck downloading it in a timely manner thanks to the way mega works. If it's any consolation, putting it on mega wasn't my idea.

>>1070514 That's admirable

>>1070425 That failure rate is made up lmao. There are some failures but I can't say it's higher than regular filament printing. You do have to check how the model is made, supported and such but that's just cuz it's different. As for the whole washing and chemical compound bit, I never cared much because I print in my shed away from people. Maybe reconsider if you are renting one room in an apartment.

>>1070425 Failure rate is not that high, maybe at the beginning when you're getting the hang of it or getting used to a printer/resin. After you've done testing your printer, resin and prepared your model correctly, every print should be the same. Nowadays there's a lot of models that come with supports and all you need to do is just click a button. If you are going to do models yourself, then yes, you'll have to keep testing your print until it's good enough, but after that it's a 100% repeatable process. The most important parts to get good at and study a bit are: >support placement >model placement and angles >cutting up big models in pieces to assemble after printing The rest is just painting and sanding. Resin printers nowadays are all pretty good, all companies have hit a resolution plateau and are trying their best to improve on other areas. Just watch some video reviews and choose the one that fits your use case. Just a reminder that it is a fucking mess and health hazard compared to filament printing, you really need to invest in a good respirator rated for organic vapors and gloves for resin/IPA.

>>784887 just make a cast out of the 3d pirnt and pour silicon in, boom silicon sex toy.

>>1070514 lovely stuff, thank

Bump

>>784572 Yes and no. It doesn't work well out of the box. It will teach you how to troubleshoot the problems that you'll eventually run into with any printer. It's something you need to be ready to tinker with at first

Any good models of cartridges? Also, consomé shells?

>Initially bought a Creality K1C due to liking the idea of 3D printing but not liking the idea of the toxicity present in resin printing. >Slowly realize I prefer printing figures even though FDM printers don't excel at it over printing props and functional pieces. Upon retrospect I may have fucked up in not sucking it up back then and getting a resin printer. Aside from sucking up now and getting a resin printer, is there a way to make figure printing on a FDM printer not suck?

>>1096305 don't have any until I get a 3d scanner but make sure to properly finish the parts that touch the console to not file away at it

>>1096512 much smaller nozzle size, I think the k1c is a decent substitute for the bambu x1c if I remember

>>1096584 That's what I'm hearing, I know K1C's "unicorn" nozzles can go as low as 0.2mm but most articles I'm seeing are recommending .15mm nozzles.

>>1096647 Yeah, also stick to easy to print materials like PLA with additives or petg/pctg.

>>1096568 >until I get a 3d scanner Speaking of, I wanted to ask about those. Are there good ones under 500 dollars? Also >>1096305 >Any good models of cartridges? I think I found some. I'll share later.

I wanna print Shantae. Any good sexy models?

>>1183856 First 3 are TheGreatPipmax, last one is Zy0n7

Since this seems like an appropriate thread to ask, is there any legal worries about commissioning custom 3d models for printing and wanting to sell 3d prints online as a side thing? I've been wanting to commission 3d models of characters I like so I can 3d print them, but I wouldn't mind selling 3d prints of the characters either since I figure I wouldn't be the only one that might like figures of them.

>>1198331 Depends on ypur country and what services you'll use to sell. But at worse you'll get a C&D request.

>>1198331 Bro honestly you can just go to a convention with free STL downloads of dice towers you found online and printed. Saw like 3 booths at my local convention selling Dice Towers I've seen online for "Beginner Prints" for $25 a pop, and they sold.

>>937217 At this point it would be cheaper to commission the printing and painting of a new figure than buying the original. (bump to save this thread)

>>1380887 To whom? Who offers such services?

>>1695856 There are people who allegedly do that in Etsy.