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Help w/ 1986 Trans Am Anonymous 11/24/2016 (Thu) 14:37:51 Id: c37395 No. 11022 [Reply] [Last]
Pic unrelated, just a google image of essentially the same thing. I bought a trans am for 2300, it's pretty beat up but it drives so i didn't mind the small repairs for the price. Of course, mechanics couldn't come and check it mobile so i just took my chances. Turns out they replaced the dash with a 20v fuse when it needs a 10v for the gauges or something and that causes explosions, the wiring looks like a spider's nest, the injectors have holes leaking everything and the ECC is unreadable because it's too old for my mechanic's machines. Now, this is one of my favorite cars so I really have no problem spending the money within reason to fix it and make it great again, but I don't know where to start. I need advice such as; Is a classic car workshop worth it, or should I just call a buddy who says he knows them well enough? Is there a place to get copies of keys cheap for general motors cars? Where do I buy good replacement parts for the trans am? If the louvers are cracked (The plastic is snapped but the metal itself is still together) should I just glue it and get new hinges or replace the whole thing and if so, where do I get them?

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>>12919 >headlights Your car should already have halogen headlights, which should be as bright as every other car on the road. If they're fogged like pic 1, your could try to polish them using one of the products made for the job, or replace them with new ones at about $15 each. I'd recommend fixing your dimmer switch before you replace the headlights, though. >>12928 >have higher light output. You could do higher output, but be careful about the wattage. Your original system was designed for 35W low beams and 65W high beams. If you exceed this without increasing the wire gauge, it could overheat the stock wiring. At worst, it could start a fire. There might be some bulbs out there that are brighter with a similar power draw, though. I don't know much about aftermarket headlights. >>12921 >Is it just the fans that stay on or do both the compressor and fans run after turning the car off >>12922 >I think only the compressor for the air conditioning keeps running It sounds like there are some misunderstandings about how a GM AC system works. Follow along in pic 2, bottom left and top right. The diagrams are from my 1969 manuals, but the system is almost identical on your Trans Am. Basically, it is a system where refrigerant flows in a circle through the engine bay. The compressor is basically a belt-driven pump with a 12V clutch connected to the control unit that controls whether the AC is on or off. The compressor pumps the refrigerant through the condenser in the front of the radiator to convert any gasses into a liquid state. This flows to the drier, which sucks the moisture out of the system. The reason it does this is because it then flows through the evaporator core, where it cools the chamber by evaporating the fluid. If there is water in the system, it could build up, freeze and block the system. There are two valves attached to the evaporator that regulate the process. The POA valve is basically a thermostat that cuts all flow if it gets too cold. The expansion valve basically causes a regulated restriction that creates pressure in the condenser and a vacuum in the evaporator. Temperature = pressure / volume. The volume of the system is fixed because it is sealed, and the pressure in the condenser increases greatly because of the compressor fighting the expansion valve's restriction, creating pressure, and the temperature in the evaporator decreases because it is full of vacuum. The changing pressure also changes the boiling point of the fluid, which helps to convert it to a gas when it passes into the low pressure zone at the evaporator. After the evaporator, the refrigerant circulates back to the compressor as a gas, where the cycle repeats. The gas turns into a liquid, condensation is removed, it is converted back to a gas at a regulated rate, and then it again travels through the compressor.

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>>12929 Hey look,I learn something new. My Camaro is an AC delete car so I've never had to mess with it. As for the light brightness , I was saying in a retarded late night post that he may have some retarded "green" cheapy sealed bulbs in now. Granted that is still not relevant until as both of us have said that he should fix his switch first.

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What does /o/ drive? Anonymous 09/25/2014 (Thu) 12:53:03 Id: aaf604 No. 590 [Reply] [Last]
Post your car and what you've done to it and are working on.
231 posts omitted.
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>>12795 That sounds cool as hell, only Pontiac.. I wish my 'bird was easy to work on; anything that isn't a fluid or right on top is basically a major repair taking me hours to do anything. Starter took me 9 hours, power steering pressure lines took me about 20 hours. Hell, I replaced my whole rear suspension, torque link bushing and transmission mount (all time combined) in less or about equal time, I'd say.
Pic related. That and a steel is not real, and if you say otherwise you are a faggot Singletrack from the mid 90s
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>>12844 You are correct, they are. Still neat though.

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Anonymous 01/17/2017 (Tue) 09:33:10 Id: d2736c No. 12133 [Reply] [Last]
Shit normalfags say ITT >Send a pic of my Protege5 to a (former) friend >"nice mom van, faggot" >He literally can't tell a van apart from a hatchback
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>>12854 Bitching out on what, you're the angry fag here. I never said SW weren't good for traveling (I actually enjoy them a lot), I just said you had enough room in recent hatchbacks to travel. Yes you can fit more in SW. But I'm just not rich enough to afford one. Also why would I bother, I'm not a 4-luggage lady when I travel.
>>12859 I thought we are allowed to have dreams here, right?
>>12855 >the same thing applies to small hatchbacks Except it isn't exactly enough room for gear, unless you're just roughing it, or going alone, which again brings me to how lonely hatchbacks are meant to he designed. >I wrote nothing to imply anything of the sort. It is true, though, that most early European small cars had only two doors, and that remains to this day Which brings us exactly to the point about western society becoming one of loners, from the four-door folk's wagon, to the two-door import. >they were not Read: cultivated. Not created from. As the age of hatchbacks came into being, so did the race cars begin to take shape with the era. >the whole time you've been talking about how cars and society have been getting more degenerate Conservative, as in purposely low, for the sake of caution. When salaries don't pay up for the pump, you've got to start thinking about a smaller car, and a smaller family. >if you are 25 with a wife and three kids, go camping on the weekends and do road trips every summer, it makes perfect sense to drive a station wagon Exactly. You should be driving your loner from the start of your time on the road to the beginning of your family, which is earlier than you think. Inheritance basically ensures that your old car won't go unloved, since eventually one of your offspring will mature to use it, in your place. The hatchback of course being of no relation to the station wagon, at this point, which is what I had addressed, to begin with. >you know how the original Beetle was the official do-it-all car of Nazi Germany >you know how it only had two doors >you know how a family put their three kids in the back and went on trips Germany was a different kind of country, back then. Its heavily-ingrained and compact culture makes for entirely different needs, when concerning transportation. A world comprised of small towns, and industrial parks, with little room between makes the station wagon wholly unnecessary, in such a homogenised realm. >having kids is stupid if you know you can't afford it That mostly comes down to idiots no longer having so many safety nets, when concerning things like credit scams, and general usury. Thus, the regular peasant who does not know so much makes for an economic trend. That, with the concurrent emissions standards and oil crisis spelled a deep change in the way people move about.

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Anonymous 03/08/2017 (Wed) 01:58:21 Id: 207677 No. 12614 [Reply]
ITT: Discuss the not so new news that CIA niggers, FBI, et all can hack into your car and drive you into a pole at 60+MPH, start a fire, steer you into an oncoming truck, etc. If you have a car with a fancy ECU, and electronic throttle body, GPS, blutooth, etc you are vulnerable. Basically, unless you drive an old shit box you can be remote controlled. My newer hyundai has electronic steering. As in, there's no mechanical steering column, it's like playing a not so fast racing game. Easily hackable. It's likely none of us are important enough to be targeted but still. Grinds your gears doesn't it?
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>>12784 If anyone's that worried about being tracked. I'm not sure why they're posting on 8chan or even using the internet. I really doubt a basic aftermarket CD player is going to track you. And if you own a cell phone they already have you,
>>12792 Precisely. It's currently impossible to use modern technology and not be tracked in some way, and open source cell towers are never going to happen, so the only way to not be tracked is to essentially not participate in society at all. You have to fuck off into the woods and ditch all your tech.
>>12792 >>12801 >meshnets >7 proxies

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2017 Will be the Best Year EVER Anonymous 12/31/2016 (Sat) 17:27:15 Id: ca435e No. 11904 [Reply] [Last]
For car lovers all around the world. > ITT post your ride > where u live > what you plan on doing to your ride in 2017
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>>11937 Pic related came in the mail today. I'll post a pic of it installed when I have a chance and it isn't dark outside.
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>>12001 >but none of the Golf's had square/rectangular You need to improve your Golf-fu
>>12772 I didn't know that was a thing, but >5,000 made >no USDM version It may as well not exist here.

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Anonymous 01/06/2015 (Tue) 06:50:12 Id: 81fac6 No. 2282 [Reply] [Last]
Let's speculate on which cars fit which boards the best. I'll start off with a few examples
>/b/- Reliant Robin
>/mu/- BMW M535i
>/a/- Toyota AE86 (Trueno model)
>/fit/- Ford Bronco
>/k/- Jeep Wrangler
>/pol/- Mercedes-Benz 770
>/co/- Toyota Prius
>/biz/- Honda Accord
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>>11790 >/pol/ would love the Trabant Do you mean /leftypol/?
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>/new/
>>2286 >/v/ - Lancer Evo Nope Celica ST-205 or a Delta Integrale

Anonymous 02/22/2017 (Wed) 04:39:23 Id: 8bf273 No. 12447 [Reply]
I'm not putting this in the QTDTOTT because I'm hoping this is going to be a build thread. Basically, my dad has a 1986 Toyota SR5 Pickup. The engine is shot, so he's thinking about doing a V8 swap. I know everyone is going to say do a 2JZ swap, but his heart is set on doing a V8 swap. We have both a Ford 289carbed and 302fuel injected sitting around. Both need to be rebuilt, but the 289 has a C4 attached to it. I've always been a Fordfag, but I know it's going to be cheaper and easier to go with some variant of an LS or a SBC. I'm pretty sure the 4x4 faggots out there already have done this swap, so that makes me think an LS1 or LS3 in an old 2wd Toyota should be that much easier. This truck's work days are done, so throw reliability out the window. Obviously, we aren't going to do an LSX swap because cash. Thoughts on what chevy is a good one to pull the engine from? Not too worried about wiring since Painless should be able to handle most of the hard parts. I'ts still going to be a bitch getting it wired in the truck. I'm just going to be the grunt for my dad, since I do all his mechanic stuff. Give me a good reason to steer him in the direction of a 2JZ instead of an LS, and ill do it.

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>>12554 Nope. Why would you need a lot of speed? Are you used to vehicles which have siginificantly less torque than horsepower? I was going completely sideways as low as 10mph and that was with a 143hp engine.
>>12560 >Why would you need a lot of speed? Momentum. >sideways as low as 10mph Interesting. I've never actually drifted - this is all conjecture.
Anyone have any idea what the cheapest LS based engine is? I'm thinking one of the 5.3 liter ones. Getting one of the LM4 i think that's what the code was all aluminum ones would be nice to save on weight, but 300hp in a sub 3000 lb truck is going to scoot regardless. Obviously this is a budget build, so no fucking way an LSA or LSX is going in this one. Is there any feasible way to keep a manual trans in it? I know the stock Toyota trans is going to grenade as soon as it starts up, plus I really doubt anyone makes a bellhousing to adapt an LS to a Toyota 5 speed. I'm kinda thinking it's going to be easier to just put in a 4 speed auto that's not electronically controlled.

Talk me out of getting a 2007 Saturn Ion Anonymous 03/07/2017 (Tue) 07:02:04 Id: c6e2bf No. 12602 [Reply]
spent 4 hours going to 7 dealerships today. whole lot of shady salespeople who either basically shooed me out the door when I told them my comfort zone was 6-8k and 10k the absolute max, or tried to bully me into their financing and spending more than I can afford when I told them I had financing and a loan through my bank. Came through with a 2007 focus and a 2007 Ion as the only decent choices. I'm not a mechanic, and I'm not a car guy though I really want to be and hope to be in the future. fact is I need a reliable and inexpensive to own vehicle that gets decent mileage, is maneuverable, and not ultra-gay. is there any legitimate reason not to go with either of these two? I already decided against a Saab 9-3 and a Mitsubishi Lancer because I realized I'm not going to magically become a mechanic overnight or even someone who has money to burn on their car. Sure one day I want a project car I can tinker with and be proud of, but right now I need a rock. Visiting some more places on the other side of the state where some family friends (who all work or have worked in the automotive industry including sales and repairs) live and they're gonna take me to some of the places they know but these two are likely to still be my top choices if everything else I've seen is any indication The 69 442 Hurst will have to wait Just background info, Not my first car and not a novice drive. almost ten years of experience on the road, I've owned a Delta 88, a Ranger, and a Cavalier. I can check fluids, change oil, air filters, tires, ect but thats about it. Cars I decided against: Honda S2000 - Way too expensive for what they are Subaru Impreza/WRX - Saab 9-3 - Liked the car but the dealer was shifty and I decided I didn't want to buy euro for reasons listed above Mitsubishi Lancer GT - Wasn't at the lot when we got there and mechanic family friend's reply was "No" when I asked him about mitsubishi Miata - local dealers don't have any in my price range

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>>12695 So you asked us for no reason. Okay.
>>12695 >did what we said not to do lol okay >learning more about basic repairs I have a feeling you're gonna learn pretty quick, either with your hands or with your wallet… I don't know how reliable that specific platform is but I know the Cavalier before it was pretty shitty, and cars generally don't improve very quickly from generation to generation - especially Americans. I would have done what I suggested (obviously) but whatever, you do you.
>>12698 I guess it's one way to learn how to work on a car. Buy one that will break and need work. Then you're forced to learn. That or just bring it to someone to fix and learn the repair is more than the car is worth. Any jap car would have been a better pick even a fucking Yaris or Fit.

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/o/ under new ownership + Post your banners and suggestions here ## Board Owner 12/07/2016 (Wed) 19:14:36 Id: f1f13f No. 11225 [Reply] [Last]
Hello everyone, Saab anon here. I got tired of looking at the brownpills and thought that we should have an active BO. I sent a claim for /o/, and now here I am. the last BO wasn't active since February I already took the liberty of deleting the brownpills and spoilering some porn, as well as changing the board message. I also made moderation logs completely public because I like transparency. Some things I would like to do: >get more banners >maybe get custom flags - like for automakers, racing teams, etc >not be a faggot BO Does anyone else have any suggestions? Post them here for discussion or email me. Post your new banners here as well. Follow the rules: http://8ch.net/o/rules.html
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>>12690 Oh, and I am running AR162B's 5-door mod, it's the closest thing to a Justy in Beam.
>custom default name Dank
>>12693 I prefer this instead. Just kidding, of course. I don't approve of tripfagging that much.

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Car design Anonymous 02/23/2017 (Thu) 01:59:25 Id: 23a066 No. 12469 [Reply]
Can someone explain the shift in car manufacturing from the more geometric and metal design to the more curved and plastic design? The material is probably just a cost thing, but most cars now-a-days pretty much all look like shit and look the same. I'm interested in how and why this shift occurred. I might be biased but newer cars look uninspired and samey.
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The Mark II is more a trim name then an actual model designation. Though you're probally right about them not sharing like all the good land barges they didn't bring over for some fucking reason. Though it should be noted that Toyota and BMW did partner to make the Not-Supra so a new Toyota inline seems fucking inevitable. You don't partner with BMW and not do an inline 6 for a car famous for it's inline 6, especially after the FR-S had a boxer which is a lot more work then an Inline. Though hopefully Lexus does unfuck it's design phylosiphy. They somehow made a car that looks worse in person, which isn't how that works normally. And it's not even the large grill is a bad idea, it's just everything is incongrous and looks like the clay sculpt melt. Early Lexus's were perhaps bland, but bland is better then awful.
>>12659 Lexus cars are just ugly. They look like plastic niggermobiles
>>12659 >straight-six FT1 is inevitable I want to agree but I wouldn't put it past them to fuck it up somehow, considering the boxer in the 86. We'll just have to see. >Lexus ugly I like the earlier ones. I don't know who infiltrated the design team in the late 2000s but they have completely fucked almost everything.

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ITT: music Anonymous 01/09/2017 (Mon) 09:29:26 Id: 4cb4ed No. 12011 [Reply]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gy89jGlY6-8 Post what you listen to in the car. Synthwave is best drivewave imo. I'll post some.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nqe7jPX6DQY Warning: do not drive a Maverick ML8 with this song playing late at night. Trust me, DO NOT DO EET!
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https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=XoqlATD6ups >>12011 While rolling through the hood.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AoQyAv-HrXU >>12011 Eurobeat for perfect weight transfers over speed bumps and apex clipping around roundabouts.

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Anonymous 02/22/2017 (Wed) 05:39:01 Id: e10206 No. 12449 [Reply]
What was your first car, /o/? And what do you think a good one would be?
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>>12500 I'll find you a source when I get home Here, to buy an A6 with the V6 means you're really wealthy. People at the bottom line never get over hatchbacks (or Dacia) or used rides. A 60k€ ride isn't for everyone if you take into account the insurance that goes with it. Take it from me, my father had sedans since he worked as an architect, but he could never afford better than an Audi Q5.
>>12500 >>12501 http://www.jato.com/usa/suv-takes-over-as-the-best-selling-segment-in-europe-for-the-first-time/ here you go, mate. I wasn't far from the truth, here they say approximately 12% to sedans, including mid size, large size and luxury sedans.
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>>12500 >>12501 >>12505 Triple posting for the sake of it

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Anonymous 02/04/2017 (Sat) 02:03:56 Id: 5c739c No. 12296 [Reply]
German Cars>Italian Cars>Japanese Cars>American Cars
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>>12464 How so? Italians (Alfa, Maserati, Ferrari, Fiat) are more expensive to begin with and are more expensive to maintain than Germans because they are about as reliable as actual horses. Japanese are a little more expensive to buy than Americans but hardly ever break down and are cheap as fuck to fix when they do. Americans are cheap to buy and cheap to fix but they break down more often.
>>12465 Ferrari Maserati and Alfa-Romeo are indeed costlier to buy but cost way less to maintain as they are not engineered to fall apart one day after the warranty expires like BMW, Porsche and Audi. Furthermore, Italian cars hold their value dramatically better than German ones. So the TCO is, as a rule, lower. And Fiats are actually slightly cheaper to buy than VW while being more reliable and being cheaper to fix. German cars are among the lowest quality available. Mercedes is the only German car manufacturer ranking above average, everyone else is at the tail of the curve. Look up the stats, it's common knowledge. Japanese cars were solid in the 1990s and earlier 2000s, these days they are not putting out anything worth their premium. And American cars tend to hold their value better. Jeeps and Ford pickup trucks are the best in this regard. Ford and Chrysler are just as good as Toyota and Honda while holding their value better and being cheaper to buy and fix. GM is another story. If you want to minimize TCO in America, buy American. In Europe choose Fiat. In Asia, choose Japanese. The Japanese are pretty competitive worldwide though.
>>12486 >Fiat as a good Euro choice How about no. Get a French ride or a japanese but hell no don't touch these shitboxes. Even Hyundai is better.

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Anonymous 01/30/2017 (Mon) 10:06:04 Id: 7c87d1 No. 12262 [Reply]
>we asked Mazda: Why aren’t small displacement engines still a thing? The answer was simple. >“Making a piston costs about the same amount, whether it’s a big piston or a little one,” explained Mazda engineer Dave Coleman. “Boring a cylinder costs about the same whether it’s big or small. Casting and machining two three-cylinder heads costs almost twice as much as one four-cylinder head. Making four variable cam timing actuators costs exactly twice as much as making two. Six injectors costs 50 percent more than four.” >When you’re developing a car to a price, that overall price and profit is directly related to the amount it costs to build said car. Why build a V6 if you can engineer a four-cylinder engine with the same displacement and similar output at a lesser overall cost? >And to drive the point home even further, there’s not much practical point in building a V6, as they “take up more space than four-cylinders, making a bigger, heavier car,” continued Coleman. http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2016/03/ask-editor-happened-small-displacement-v6s/ Seems four bangers are the future, well and truly. Pic kinda related, most powerful production four banger.
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>>12433 >>12435 But if you have 2 horses of different build levels (genders), you can get a third one for free.
>>12422 These engines where kind of weird. Starting involved heating up the cylinder head untill it glows. Then you had to pump fuel to the injector and set it for the correct spray pattern and injection. Then you removed the steering wheel and conected it to the crankshaft Then jou had to turn it manualy, I don´t know if it had a decompression system though. Good thing was, these engine can run on any burnable liquid from Acetone to old motor oil.
>>12481 This is how it looks if you start it:https://youtu.be/BXEEbZS5zhM (actual starting beginns at 1:00)

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Anonymous 01/23/2017 (Mon) 01:05:22 Id: c95e1e No. 12201 [Reply]
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>>12226 But you don't have to be rich to buy one without fucking yourself over. Someone who makes around $100k/year and lives in a normal sized house could easily get one.
>>12234 What about maintenance? Italians always cost a lot to maintain, especially a new Alfa. I don't think you're going to reasonably be able to maintain it with $100k/year after taxes and other living expenses, especially if you are like most people and have debt. It could happen if you pretended you had half your salary to work with for everything else, or if you were smart and didn't have debt, but very few people do either of those things. New Alfas are shit anyway. Expensive, unreliable, and shit to drive, but pretty to look at? They are the automotive equivalent of stuck-up, retarded supermodels.

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Anonymous 12/27/2016 (Tue) 20:52:56 Id: 1b4628 No. 11879 [Reply]
>2005 >Every poorfag gets access to RWD v6s under 60k because the Chrysler 300M and Cadillac CTS >They sell like hotcakes >Everyone on disability and working 40k gets one >2015 >Every poorfag can now get a RWD V6 thanks to Dodge Charger and the Dodge Charger >They sell like mad >The working poor get deyselves a Charger, two to a house What is the next "performance" car for babies and why do you have to say about this phenomena.
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>>11915 you mean you're concerned about shortening the lifespan of the engine? idk man, would you rather live 25,000 miles N/A or 15,000 with boost? Decisions, decisions…
>>11918 My Mazda's engine supposedly can't safely use significant boost without aftermarket pistons. Once I do an inevitable engine rebuild I might go for a turbo too, but cam replacement seems like a better option ATM.
>>11879 300M is front wheel drive you tard

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